As a creative and curious person, I love exploring different aspects of jewellery—its history, evolution, and cultural significance. My goal isn’t just to write blog posts to sell my pieces but to share knowledge, spark curiosity, and uncover fascinating stories. I want this space to be a place where we can learn together, diving into intriguing topics and truly enjoying the research behind them. With each new blog, I invite you to join me down the rabbit hole of discovery and take something meaningful from the journey.
An Anthropological Journey
Jewellery has adorned human beings for millennia, serving as a reflection of culture, status, and personal expression. The history of jewellery is not merely a history of adornment but a fascinating tale that intersects with the evolution of human society, technology, and artistry.
The First Recorded Jewellery Pieces
In writing this blog post I have learnt so much with the research into the earliest pieces of jewellery. The earliest known jewellery dates back to approximately 100,000 years ago. Archaeologists have discovered beads made from Nassarius shells in a cave in Morocco, signifying the earliest form of personal adornment. These beads were likely used as necklaces or bracelets, showcasing an early desire for aesthetic adornment and possibly conveying social status or group affiliation.
In other parts of the world, such as Europe and Africa, early humans used materials like bones, teeth, and stones to create ornaments. These pieces were not merely decorative; they often held spiritual or symbolic significance. For instance, the use of animal teeth and bones might have been believed to confer the strength or spirit of the animal upon the wearer.
To us, the idea of using teeth and bone as jewellery might seem unusual, yet we still wear animal tusks, shark teeth, and similar adornments today. The earliest discovered evidence of human bone and perforated teeth used as ornaments dates back to 35,000–31,000 cal BC and was found in Aurignacian, France. In another part of the world, the Kānaka Maoli of Hawaii use bones and shark teeth to honour the animal’s life and to inherit its attributes and spiritual benefits. From this, we can see that the use of bone, seashells, and teeth as ornaments was widespread across different cultures, even those with no contact with one another. This suggests that jewellery is an intrinsic part of human culture.
The Cultural Significance of Early Jewellery
Jewellery in ancient times was deeply intertwined with cultural and spiritual practices. In many societies, it served as a talisman, believed to protect the wearer from harm or bring good fortune. The materials used often held specific meanings; for example, gold, with its enduring luster, was associated with the divine and eternal life in ancient Egyptian culture.
However, long before the ancient cultures of Mesopotamia and Egypt, the work of goldsmiths had already started between 4600 and 4200 BCE in the shores of the Black Sea, in modern day Bulgaria. A few kilometres away from Varna, in a Copper Age Necropolis, the oldest gold objects were discovered.
Jewellery also played a role in social hierarchies. In ancient Mesopotamia and Egypt, elaborate jewellery was a marker of wealth and power, worn by the elite to display their status. In some cultures, jewellery was used in rituals and ceremonies, signifying important life events such as marriage or coming of age.
Almost all ancient Egyptians wore jewellery, from the poorest to the Pharaohs, regardless of material and quality, these adornments represented protection and power. Jewellery was thought to protect the living from disease and danger and the dead required amulets to protect them for eternity.
The Book of the Dead detailed how ancient Egyptians should be buried with amulets, jewellery, and gemstones to ensure their safe passage into the afterlife. These sacred items were carefully placed within the wrappings of the mummy or worn as adornments, each serving a specific protective or guiding function. Amulets like the Scarab symbolized rebirth, while the Eye of Horus offered protection. Precious stones such as lapis lazuli, carnelian, and turquoise were believed to hold magical properties, aiding the deceased in their journey. These carefully chosen pieces played a crucial role in the burial process, ensuring the soul’s successful transition and acceptance into the afterlife.
The First Civilizations to Use Metals in Jewellery
The advent of metalworking marked a significant milestone in the history of jewellery. Around 5000 BCE, the first civilizations to master metalworking, such as the Egyptians, Sumerians, and later the Indus Valley Civilization, began creating jewellery from gold, silver, and copper.
These early metalworkers developed techniques that would lay the foundation for modern jewellery making. The sophistication of their work is evident in artefacts like the gold necklaces and headdresses of ancient Egypt, which display intricate designs and craftsmanship.
In our trip to Egypt, one of the most astounding aspects of visiting the ancient Egyptian sites and museums was the intricate jewellery work. It made me wonder how they managed to create such works of art with ancient tools. They did not only work the gold in extreme detail but the use of gemstones, cut and polished to perfection.
The Art of Lost Wax Casting
One of the most enduring techniques from ancient times is lost wax casting, a method that dates back to at least 3500 BCE. This process involves creating a detailed wax model of the desired item, which is then encased in a heat-resistant material to form a mold. Once the mold is heated, the wax melts away, leaving a cavity into which molten metal is poured.
The lost wax casting technique was widely used by the ancient Mesopotamians, Egyptians, and later by the Greeks and Romans. It allowed for the creation of complex and detailed jewellery pieces that would have been difficult to achieve with other methods.
As this is my method of making jewellery, I will go more in depth about this topic in a separate blog, as there is so much to talk about but the lost wax casting was what allowed the creation of extremely detailed jewellery, statues amongst many other useful objects.
Today, lost wax casting remains a cornerstone of jewellery making, valued for its ability to produce detailed and precise pieces. As a jewellery maker specializing in this technique, I find it fascinating to work with a process that connects me to such an ancient and rich tradition.
The history of jewellery is a testament to human creativity and the desire for beauty and self-expression. From the simple shell beads of our early ancestors to the intricate gold pieces of ancient civilizations, jewellery has evolved alongside human culture, reflecting our values, beliefs, and technological advancements. As we continue to craft and wear jewellery, we are partaking in a tradition that spans thousands of years, a tradition that continues to inspire and captivate.